Start the pasta: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Add the macaroni and cook for 1 minute less than the package instructions suggest — you want it al dente, with a slight white core visible when you bite one in half. Drain the pasta, but do not rinse it; the residual starch helps the sauce cling. Set the colander aside.

Build the roux: In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat. Once it's fully melted and begins to foam — you'll hear a gentle sizzle — whisk in the flour. Cook this mixture, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes. It should turn a pale golden colour and smell faintly nutty, like a warm biscuit.

Make the béchamel: Slowly pour the warmed milk into the roux, a little at a time, whisking vigorously after each addition to prevent lumps. The mixture will go from a thick paste to a thin, bubbling liquid. Once all the milk is in, add the double cream, mustard powder, smoked paprika, and garlic powder. Continue whisking until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon — about 5 to 7 minutes. You should see small bubbles breaking the surface, and the sauce will feel heavy and smooth.

Melt in the cheeses: Reduce the heat to low. Add the grated cheddar in handfuls, stirring until each addition is fully melted before adding the next. The sauce will turn a deep, glossy yellow and smell gloriously sharp. Drop in the softened cream cheese and stir until it disappears into the mixture. Season with the salt and black pepper, then taste — the sauce should be slightly saltier than you think you need, as the pasta will absorb some.

Combine and rest: Tip the drained macaroni into the cheese sauce and fold everything together with a rubber spatula until every piece of pasta is coated. The sauce should look thick and luscious, clinging to the pasta without being stiff. Let this sit for 5 minutes so the pasta can absorb some of the liquid; the mixture will appear slightly looser when it first comes off the heat.

Prepare the topping and bake: Preheat your oven to 190°C (170°C fan). In a small bowl, combine the panko breadcrumbs with the olive oil and a pinch of salt. Rub them between your fingers until the oil is evenly distributed and the crumbs look like damp sand. Grease a 23x33cm baking dish with butter. Pour the mac and cheese into the dish and spread it into an even layer. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the top, then finish with a generous final handful of grated cheddar. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling at the edges and the top is a deep, burnished gold. You'll know it's ready when you can hear it gently simmering and the crust feels firm to a light touch.

The crucial rest: Remove the dish from the oven and let it stand for at least 10 minutes. This is not a suggestion — it's essential. The sauce will set slightly, preventing it from running all over the plate, and the pasta will finish cooking in the residual heat. The kitchen will smell of toasted cheese and butter, a scent I could bottle.